I'm not scared because I've got my Virgin Mary
I had an experience worth sharing. About two years ago, i dropped down the face of a six foot gem at my local reaf near Port MACQUIARIE, and all of a sudden this gorgeous masterpice of wave transformed into the gnarliest beast i`ve ever ridden. This thing was one of those weves your dream about making...but if you don`t, it becomes a nightmare really quick. I drew my line and gunned it, but there was no way Iwas going to escape. The lip wen straight through the middle of board and snapped it like a twig. I felt my knee go sideways and my arm go backwards, but all I was really worried about was NOT HITTING THE REEF AND DROWning, I scored 26 stitches in my head, a dislocated knee, a broken ankle, a dislocated shoulder, a concussion and some internal injuries around my kidneys. I also snapped all the ligaments in my knee and had to get a total reconstruction. I was back walking about four months ago. the doc told me I now had arthritis because of all the damage I did to my knee. I asked him about surfing and he said I could still get out there, bur bot for another 12 months.
So yesterday was my first surf in two years, My mates sat on their boards and gave me the greatest channel - call of all time when I caught the first wave of the day. It was magic. my first wave in two years and I had that feeling of getting out there in the surf is some thing you can`t reamplace or find anywhere eles.That feeling is one we have to cherish and make the most of. The past two years have been hell sometimes, but the last 24 hours have been pure heavean. The feeling, the rush of riding a wave, that`s what i really want to share. To everyone who helped me out, you rock, to everey who keeps the feeling alive, i`ll a beer for you.
Joe, port Macquarie.
I had an experience worth sharing. About two years ago, i dropped down the face of a six foot gem at my local reaf near Port MACQUIARIE, and all of a sudden this gorgeous masterpice of wave transformed into the gnarliest beast i`ve ever ridden. This thing was one of those weves your dream about making...but if you don`t, it becomes a nightmare really quick. I drew my line and gunned it, but there was no way Iwas going to escape. The lip wen straight through the middle of board and snapped it like a twig. I felt my knee go sideways and my arm go backwards, but all I was really worried about was NOT HITTING THE REEF AND DROWning, I scored 26 stitches in my head, a dislocated knee, a broken ankle, a dislocated shoulder, a concussion and some internal injuries around my kidneys. I also snapped all the ligaments in my knee and had to get a total reconstruction. I was back walking about four months ago. the doc told me I now had arthritis because of all the damage I did to my knee. I asked him about surfing and he said I could still get out there, bur bot for another 12 months.
So yesterday was my first surf in two years, My mates sat on their boards and gave me the greatest channel - call of all time when I caught the first wave of the day. It was magic. my first wave in two years and I had that feeling of getting out there in the surf is some thing you can`t reamplace or find anywhere eles.That feeling is one we have to cherish and make the most of. The past two years have been hell sometimes, but the last 24 hours have been pure heavean. The feeling, the rush of riding a wave, that`s what i really want to share. To everyone who helped me out, you rock, to everey who keeps the feeling alive, i`ll a beer for you.
Joe, port Macquarie.
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